Tag Archives: roses

Ferran’s Accent

It was the kind of morning where you count the number of minutes you slept rather than the hours, and pretend that one coffee is going to be sufficient. I stood in the hotel lobby with a desperate latte still in one hand, when a man approached to firmly shake the other. “Ferran,” he said. No last name was needed.

We piled into a black SUV and the pinstriped suit in a backwards Kangol cap began to drive. “Es como Roses de Barcelona,” remarked Mr. Adrià. Our two-hour journey from Manhattan to Hyde Park felt like the one that gastrotourists fresh off the BCN tarmac used to make to visit him at elBulli, traffic and terrain excepted. That restaurant is now closed, of course. But since the last dinner service — el último vals — on July 30, 2011, both Ferran and elBulli have evolved. I needed to find out how. Continue reading

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el Bulli

Describing every morsel of food I ate at el Bulli, like writing a book report on the Bible, would be one hell of an undertaking. Followers of any faith already know much of the plot. The protagonist is worshipped by some, misunderstood by others. The reservation system involves countless requests but only a chosen few are granted. (Those that think they have “a better chance at seeing God” probably do.) Miracles are performed on food and beverage. Don’t pretend you don’t see the similarities.

Actually since lunch at el Bulli lasted more than six hours, I don’t want it to take you that long to read about it. Instead consider the following timeline: Continue reading

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